Taiwanese cuisine embraces hearty comfort food: brown sugar steamed buns, green onion pancakes slick with delicious pan grease and simmered beef noodle soup bulked up with layers of bok choy, for example. Now you can find all of this and more at a new establishment in Chinatown called Tainan Bistro, which opened in January.

It’s located in the same plaza as the original Mala Sichuan on Bellaire Boulevard. It used to be a Vietnamese cafe called B10, and you’ll find traces of the cafe’s past existence with a “got bánh mí?” sign emblazoned on one wall inside the restaurant. The interior is simply outfitted, with plenty of seating and free hot tea and radish soup.

We stopped in for dinner and chatted with the owner Ming Hsu as we perused the menu. He told us that everything is house-made, including the noodles, dumplings and buns. The menu – mostly in Mandarin – features fried rice, bento boxes, noodles and cold dishes. Don’t worry though, there’s also an English menu available. We opted to try the classic lu roh fan (minced pork with rice) and the dan dan noodles. Hsu took our orders at the counter.

Lu roh fan (minced pork with rice) at Tainan Bistro

The lu roh fan ($4.50, photo above) includes a heap of rice covered with a generous ladle of tender, flavorful bits of pork belly bursting with aromatic Chinese five-spice. A traditional tea egg (hard-boiled and steeped in a star anise, soy sauce and Chinese five-spice broth) perches on a bed of bok choy and marinated firm tofu. (Note that the bento boxes at Tainan Bistro generally allow for three helpings from a cafeteria-style assortment of dishes.) We loved how this dish celebrates authentic flavors in a simple, warm way. The price also cannot be beat.

Dan dan noodles at Tainan Bistro

The dan dan noodles ($5.95, photo above), made in the Taiwanese style, consist of long, medium-wide noodles enrobed in a thick peanut- and sesame-based sauce with strips of shredded carrot. This Taiwanese version is different from the Sichuan version, which has a spicy chili sauce and minced pork.

Tainan Bistro’s Mandarin menu, which spans above the counter, may appear daunting at first, but it’s a mark of authenticity. It’s also proof that this destination appeals to the Asian community in Houston; as we dined, we saw lots of families as well as individuals young and old enjoying their meals here. Take a look at the English menu – it’s not difficult to decipher – and explore a new niche of food that is absolutely delicious.

Tainan Bistro, 9306 Bellaire Blvd. between Ranchester Dr. & Corporate Dr., 713-988-7275, facebook.com/tainanbistro
Hours: Sun. to Mon. 10:30 am–9 pm