One might not expect to find some of the most innovative seafood in the country being served in Sugar Land, Texas, but with the opening of Preview Modern Seafood, executive chef Jason Liao (below) is determined to make you a believer.

“Houston’s dining scene has evolved dramatically over the past decade, and I want to be a part of that,” says Liao, returning to his hometown after stints at Austin’s Nanami Sushi Bar and Umi Sushi Bar. “We bring a unique style of global seafood cuisine based on our staff’s cooking backgrounds, as opposed to the more commonly seen Gulf seafood or “sushi bar” concepts. I intend to take a traditional skill set and expand its culinary boundaries.”

And expand he does. With a menu that includes “KFT” (Kentucky fried tuna), king salmon, squid ink ravioli, and a riff on “chips n’ dip” (tuna ceviche, sea scallops, fried snapper “chips”), Liao’s creativity stems from his apprenticeship at Umi, under his mentor Po Lee, where he was challenged daily to come up with off-menu specials for regular customers.

“Failure to execute would result in private shaming and pitiful tip-outs at the end of the night,” he relates. But a successful dish would bring accolades (and better tips). Soon the daily assignments ignited a passion for the craft that continues to inspire him.

Liao’s journey to become a chef was directed by a series of personal challenges, too, including the illness of his mother. “I became aware of the fragility of life and the sense of urgency to do something meaningful with my own.”

With a pointed focus on quality, Liao channels his creativity through select ingredients, such as Ora King salmon (photo below), a sustainably grown species from New Zealand. “When I was shown the entire breeding process, I knew I was looking at a product that was produced for quality rather than quantity,” says Liao of Ora King. “This product is so special, it has been nicknamed ‘Wagyu of the Sea.’”

Photo by Gary Gee

Since its opening in May, recent dishes at Preview have included: seared Hokkaido sea scallops with sweet potato gnocchi (photo below), candied bacon and truffle oil; a deconstructed langoustine “gumbo”; and Canadian lobster bisque with lobster nuggets. (This last is already a frequent customer favorite.) The Chef’s Tasting Menu changes daily, and a la carte dishes will rotate through the main menu. Having recently received their TABC liquor license, a beer, wine and sake menu is now being offered. Wine pairings will soon follow with the tasting menu.

Photo by Gary Gee

Liao and his team have a fairly simple goal: to provide excellent food, great service and a memorable dining experience in an unpretentious atmosphere. With just 36 seats, Preview is the ideal venue for Liao and his team to be approachable and personable with the guests. “Half of my staff followed me from the sushi bar, so we’re already very familiar with building the chef-customer dynamic. Hospitality is in our culinary nature.”

Preview’s opening in the suburbs rather than inside The Loop is an ambitious move, but Liao and his team are confident that it is also an auspicious one.

PREVIEW MODERN SEAFOOD, 4645 Highway 6 Sugar Land, 832-939-8968, previewmodernseafood.com. Currently open for dinner only Tuesday through Sunday.