Close to trendy-hot Washington Avenue – but not too close – Convivio has taken over the very red space that was briefly Table 7 (not to be confused with nearby Block 7, which is doing just fine). The new ownership has swept clear the space to create a coolly contemporary Spanish restaurant with hanging orange cylindrical lights, neutral colors and an oversized chalkboard. Four-tops populate the perimeter of the room, and huge chunky communal tables and benches run down the middle.

Oscar Aguilar, who also has Decco Cafe in the Decorative Center, envisioned a tapas restaurant that has true Spanish hours – i.e. late-night service to 2 am on the weekends. And it’s true that when we arrived recently at 7 pm for dinner there was only one other table occupied. Aguilar anticipates Convivio becoming a place for restaurant industry folks to gather after they close their own kitchens.

We began dinner with a series of tapas and montaditos, which are little open-face sandwiches served on a slice of baguette. Our favorite: the fabulous dry and flavorful chorizo montadito topped with ripened brie. We also loved the rose buds of rolled-up jamón iberico (Iberian ham), considered by many to be the world’s finest ham. The price is dear – $25 for four pieces and four slices of baguette rubbed with garlic and tomato – but you’ll want to try this legendary ham at least once in your life.

There are many more tapas choices, too, including fried shrimp that are “breaded” with mashed potatoes, crabcakes with sherry wine reduction and eggplant tempura. The tapas range in price from $5 to $12 per plate (except for the ham noted above) and are generously portioned.

The other dish you will want to try is the paella, which is served in an over-sized pan at the table. We very much liked our traditional selection, which was made with dense round Bomba rice, little cherrystone clams, shrimp and pork. Many varieties of paella are offered at Sunday brunch, including black paella made with squid ink and the noodle kind made with fine threads of fideo in place of rice. Order one along with a round of sangria, and enjoy a long leisurely Sunday brunch, Spanish style.

The menu is printed daily, so expect seasonal ingredients. And there is a surprisingly deep wine list with, of course, an emphasis on Spanish wines. Many bottles are in the $20 to $30 range.

Open late for dinner, plus Saturday lunch and Sunday brunch.

CONVIVIO, 700 S. Durham, 3 blocks south of Washington Ave., 832-360-1750, conviviohouston.com