I was rooting for Roost well before it opened, though I didn’t know what to expect beyond the “affordable farm-to-table” concept. I knew that chef/owner Kevin Naderi had served as sous chef at Haven alongside chef Randy Evans since its opening (and before that at Brennan’s) and expressed a lot of enthusiasm for opening his own place. Expectations were exceeded as I discovered a truly charming, funky, neighborhood hangout that I look forward to returning to. Here’s why.

The cute location on Fairview at Hazard used to be a Cuban restaurant, Latina Cafe. It’s small (52 seats plus a couple of picnic tables on the patio) with a casual, relaxed feel that fits in perfectly with the surrounding Montrose neighborhood. Naderi described how they removed the low ceiling and stained the exposed beam work and added antique shutters to the walls to define the space. Artwork is from a local photographer, and a hip soundtrack compliments the scene.

Naderi says he was inspired by a trip to Girl and the Goat, Stephanie Izard’s edgy Chicago restaurant. Right off the bat his food does indeed feel inspired, beginning with the optional bread service, a custom-made round loaf from Slow Dough that was pumpernickel-esque with a hint of molasses, served with your choice of two spreads. We chose the foie gras butter and a herb-caper spread, and both were divine. We continued with a “small plate” of creamy crecenza cheese from Houston Dairymaids served with confit tomatoes and thin slices of shaved garlic, Texas olive oil and crispy basil served with crostini. Yes, I was in for two bread courses but I wasn’t sorry … and where has fried basil been all my life, by the way?

For mains, we chose the braised lamb shoulder with creamy polenta, baby peppers, “greens n’ jus” and the seared diver scallops, curried lentils and grilled grape raita. The firm texture and full flavor of the lamb was accented nicely by the polenta and the greens provided balance. The scallops were seared perfectly with a housemade Berber spice atop the organic curried lentils and the grape tomato “raita.” The Moroccan/Indian flavors were rich and a nice contrast to the scallops. There are a number of vegetarian items on the menu, including a roasted cauliflower dish I’m dying to try and even a smoked seitan dish. (Wheat-based seitan is the so-called “mock meat” often used in Asian restaurants.) The menu is not huge, but varied and interesting. Prices are quite reasonable.

In spite of being full, we persevered to make it through dessert, choosing the doughnut holes with salted caramel sauce, crushed pistachios and powdered sugar. The fried balls of dough had crispy exteriors and moist centers, and the sauce was a fine touch. We thought we’d just have a couple of bites, but we ate them all.

The menu thanks specific local farms, but Naderi admits he has had to search for some sources beyond the range of “local.” Nevertheless he can tell you where to get the best of whatever he’s looking for in Texas or beyond. No doubt his education with Randy Evans serves him well in that regard, and I certainly look forward to what’s in store on this ever-changing menu of honest, interesting plates in the heart of the neighborhood.

ROOST, 1972 Fairview just west of Hazard, 713-523-7667. Currently open for dinner only.