Don’t let the demon on the sign fool you – Torchy’s Tacos is a little piece of heaven. The Austin import opened on December 7, taking over the “cursed” South Shepherd location that previously housed Cafe Zol, Sabetta and Greatfull Taco. My brother went to school in Austin, so Torchy’s had been a destination of ours every time I visited. Needless to say, I was regarded as a hero the day I came home from the My Table office and announced that a Houston location was opening.

If you’re planning on visiting Torchy’s during the lunch rush, anticipate a line out the door (unless you think ahead and order online, which is your ticket to the front of the line). I waited about 15 minutes before ordering (luckily it was a beautiful day), but the laid-back crowd makes the wait bearable.

Just like in Austin, the menu is written on a chalkboard behind the counter, and the staff is friendly, ready to help you create your perfect meal. First up was the famous Green Chile Queso, a steaming bowl of cheesy goodness topped with cilantro, avocado, queso fresco and Diablo sauce. I would be tempted sell my soul for the recipe, but Torchy’s keeps it on lockdown. Deliciously creamy with a kick at the end, this queso has a habit of disappearing too quickly. Luckily, I didn’t have time to lament the disappearance of the queso before the tacos arrived

The “Fried Avocado” taco combines a hand-battered fried avocado with vegetarian refried beans, pico, lettuce and cheese topped with homemade poblano sauce. The creaminess of the avocado pairs wonderfully with the crunchiness of the vegetables, and the heat the sauce provides makes this taco a favorite among customers. I also ordered “The Democrat,” a tortilla filled with shredded beef barbacoa topped with avocado, queso fresco, cilantro, onions and a lime wedge with tomatillo sauce on the side. The barbacoa is extremely flavorful, and the subtle spice from the tomatillo sauce has made this taco one of my personal favorites.

Other dearly-loved tacos include the “Trailer Park,’ which features fried chicken, green chilies, lettuce, pico, cheese and poblano sauce. (If you really want to be a Torchy’s insider, ask for it “Trashy Style,” which adds queso and deletes the lettuce.) Also not-to-be-missed: the “Brush Fire,” the ultra-spicy combination of Jamaican jerk chicken, grilled jalapeños, mango, sour cream, cilantro and Diablo sauce, and the “Baja Shrimp” featuring fried shrimp with cooked cabbage slaw topped with pickled jalapeños and onions, queso fresco, cilantro, a lime wedge and chipotle sauce.

Wash your tacos down with a Mexican Coke or one of a selection of organically sweetened, all-natural sodas from Maine Root, and you have a delicious, affordable meal that will make you wish you had a bigger stomach.

Torchy’s had humble beginnings as an Austin food truck in 2006, but after gaining a cultish following, has spread like wildfire (or should I say Brush Fire?). This Houston location is their 10th – eight in Austin and one in Dallas – and if these first few weeks are a good prediction for the future, I’d say that Torchy’s is here to stay.

TORCHY’S TACOS, 2411 S. Shepherd slightly north of Westheimer, 713-595-8226, www.torchystacos.com