Chef/owner Wayne Nguyen of Maba Pan-Asian Diner in Midtown comes from a culinary background rooted in Vietnamese cuisine, but he excels marvelously at a variety of pan-Asian favorites as well. This new restaurant is off to a great start with classic dishes such as General Tso’s chicken and fried rice as well as Vietnamese banh mi and pan-seared lemongrass tilapia. Appetizers range from dim sum to chilled beef shank salad, Szechuan-style.

The interior of Maba Pan-Asian Diner welcomes patrons with its clean white minimalist look splashed by accents of red and orange, while the staff greets them at the counter.

We recently stopped in for lunch and ordered an impressive spread of dishes. Hand-made wontons in the wonton soup ($9, photo above) are filled with Chinese sausage, shiitake mushrooms and pork, and pan-fried dumplings ($7, photo at top), also hand-made, feature silky smooth dough and plenty of meat inside. The dumplings are charred to a pleasant crisp that is neither burnt nor dry. Chef Nguyen stopped by our table and explained that the wonton soup broth is simmered for hours, resulting in a rich reduction floating with flakes of green onion. For a refreshing appetizer, we opted for the Vietnamese papaya salad ($8, photo below), which also features pork belly, shrimp and julienned strips of cucumbers.

In terms of entrees, Maba’s version of the Singapore vermicelli ($10, photo below) involves slightly thicker noodles tossed in a sprightly yellow curry for a bit of heat along with sliced jalapenos. Sometimes the dish comes with Chinese barbecue pork, but Maba uses chicken and bell peppers to add to the medley of flavors. Another intriguing dish is the wok-tossed beef strozzapreti ($9), a nod to the Cantonese flat rice noodle and beef creation with the same smoky soy sauce flavor but using Italian strozzapreti (“priest stranger”) pasta instead.

What makes Maba so appealing is its presentation as a casual eatery within a beautiful space, the sort of destination for a nice date night spot or meal with friends. With an array of pan-Asian options that are innovative, classic and executed well, this restaurant deserves applause for its thoughtful efforts.

Maba Pan-Asian Diner, 510 Gray St., 832-834-6157, mabahouston.com
Hours: Mon. to Fri. 11 am to 10 pm; Sat. 11 am to 11 pm; Sun. noon to 10 pm