We weren’t expecting much from yet another hip Tex-Mex eatery opening in Midtown, but Stoked Tacos & Tequila far exceeded our low expectations. Keith Doyle and chef Adam Puskorius have created a fun, cheery atmosphere that brings the heat in both cocktails and food.

Stoked Tacos & Tequila is a concept of UFO Hospitality Group, led by Adam Puskorius, and Stoked is their first Houston concept. Previously, Puskorius has worked as chef de cuisine at Mark’s American Cuisine, Eddie V’s (West Ave location) and has also helped in the kitchen at Pub Fiction and Celtic Gardens (now Irish Cowboy). He spent the last two years in Chicago, but has returned home to Houston. Puskorius’ inspiration for Stoked came from Chicago’s airy Big Star taqueria … and Houston’s thirst for mas margaritas.

And speaking of margaritas, they are good here, thanks to beverage director Chris Frankel, who operates Spare Key right above Stoked. The classic margarita ($9, photo below) is just about perfect. It’s made with blanco tequila, lime juice and orange liqueur and is jaw-clenchingly tart, just the way we like it.

The classic margarita

Puskorius is making everything fresh in-house, when possible – from the tortillas and salsas to the dipping sauces and pickled vegetables. It’s a decent-sized menu, featuring starters, plates and, of course, tacos.

Red mole chicken wings

An unusual starter is an order of roasted red mole chicken wings ($10, photo above) served with roasted tomatillo cilantro ranch – 10 tender wings, covered in thick smoky mole, are delivered on a wooden board. Yes, it’s as messy as it looks, but chances are you won’t mind.

Taco de pastor

We tried two varieties of tacos. (There are nine to choose from.) We had heard good things about the taco de queso ($3). The tortilla is filled with a hunk of grilled queso asadero, avocado, pico de gallo and charred salsa verde. It’s cheesy, for sure, but surprisingly bright thanks to the fresh pico and avocado. We compare most tacos to those from our favorite taco truck – Tacos Tierra Caliente – and Stoked’s taco de pastor ($4, photo above) was very reminiscent. The marinated spit-roasted pork shoulder is tender and topped with charred pineapple, caramelized onion and cilantro.

Mashed potato taquitos ($9, photo below) turned out to be a favorite of our meal. Red cabbage, cilantro crema, queso fresco and house-pickled vegetables sit atop the three taquitos. No meat is needed here; it’s texturally interesting and fun to eat, not to mention full of color.

Mashed potato taquitos

There are some sweet treats, too. To calm your palate after a side of hot charred serranos, try one of their Mexican-style ice creams – made by Amy’s Ice Creams from recipes developed by Stoked. Featured flavors when we stopped in were local honey-vanilla ice cream and guava dreamsicle ($3 for two scoops).

The one downside here: the $10 valet (even on a Thursday afternoon at 2 pm). We won’t hold it against you, Stoked. Your margarita made up for it.

Stoked Tacos & Tequila, 2416 Brazos, 832-701-1973, stokedmidtown.com