Opening a location inside the loop does not make any restaurant better, but it sure does make the brand more accessible to hidebound inner-loopers who refuse to pass under Loop 610 in pursuit of a meal. Alas, we’ve seen countless much-admired suburban restaurants try, and fail, to make a go of a central-Houston location.

One Sugar Land restaurant recently took a leap of faith and opened a location in one of our city’s most splendid restaurant-dotted neighborhoods. We’re talking about the intersection of Montrose and Westheimer, of course.

For years this neighborhood feasted at Felix Mexican, Niko Niko’s and Aladdin – all inexpensive and much loved. More recently diners have welcomed Uchi, Southside Espresso, El Real, Mala Sichuan, BB’s Cafe, Pepperoni’s, The Burger Joint and, now, Brookstreet Bar-B-Que. Nearly anything you’re in the mood for, it’s all piled around one busy intersection. (Well, except for Felix, which closed and made room for Uchi.)

If you often travel north on Montrose, you may have noticed that there was a home being remodeled at Missouri on the east side of the street. Now it is complete with a stone facade, inviting shady wood deck and windmill. The new inhabitant, Brookstreet Bar-B-Que, offers a driver-thru window, too – much appreciated by barbecue fans when you need your meat and you need it to go.

The original Brookstreet Bar-B-Que opened 17 years ago in Sugar Land and has since opened locations in Missouri City, Richmond and in west Houston on Westheimer. As of this writing the newest location hasn’t yet been added to their website, but check soon for the addition as well as the ability to order online.

According to owner Jamil Musa, the family-run business was ready to expand inside The Loop, and he believed that buying and rehabilitating a three-bed, two-bath 1930 home was his chance to pounce on the location. Add in the super accommodating service and you’ve got a great spot in a central location to stop and break for brisket.

Yesterday we stopped in to order the Special of the Day ($8, photo above), which included a chopped-beef sandwich along with one side (my guest chose potato casserole) and a plentiful portion of purple pickled onions and sliced pickles. I opted for the Stone House Trio ($13, photo below) that includes brisket, your choice of spicy or regular sausage and pulled pork, as well as three sides: beans, potato salad and a colorful coleslaw. I also threw in a challah roll, because why the challah not?

If you want to spend your summer checking out barbecue, don’t miss this new (but old) Montrose joint. Staff is friendly and the tangy sauce has got a spicy kick.

Brookstreet BBQ,1009 Missouri, 713-234-3165, brookstreetbbq.com