It was big news in the local food world when San Francisco-area celebrity chef (and two-time James Beard Award winner) Bradley Ogden announced many months ago that he and his son Bryan were opening not one, not two but three restaurant concepts in Houston.

The first of these, Funky Chicken, debuted quietly in early December on Heights Boulevard just south of I-10.

Funky Chicken has a fast-casual set-up that many are comparing to Chipotle. In my view that comparison is a bit off. I find the storefront to be unique and cute. I like the odd assortment of chicken paintings and lights, and the green backsplash behind the order counter is appealing. The danceable background music is entertaining, and I may have grooved to “No Parking On the Dance Floor” just a bit.

If anything, however, the concept is more like a hip version of Grandy’s, the country cooking restaurant that had locations in Houston years ago. Their slogan was “Fast Food That Tastes Slow,” and they served a similar menu of roasted chicken, fried chicken, biscuits, French fries, cole slaw and the like. They didn’t make it here in Houston, although they still have locations in other parts of Texas.

I’ve been to Funky Chicken twice now, and the employees have provided exceptional, considerate, friendly service on both visits. I have observed them provide the same level of service to customers at the tables and booths around me as well.

I’m on the fence about their thinly battered fried chicken. Houston loves boldly crunchy and über-crispy fried chicken like that served at Frenchy’s, Barbecue Inn and Max’s Wine Dive. And, call me lowbrow, but I occasionally crave a Popeye’s spicy with a side of mashed potatoes and red beans and rice. On the other hand, a friend I spoke with last night said she really enjoyed Funky Chicken’s thin, crispy coating; she said it reminds her a bit of tempura. Obviously not everyone is looking for the same thing in an order of fried chicken.

Even if it’s not exactly what I was hoping for, the fried chicken is moist and cooked all the way through, and the coating is crisp. Don’t get me wrong: The fried chicken isn’t bad; it’s just not exceptional in this fried chicken-loving city.

Funky Chicken is not as inexpensive as you might expect, especially if you’re feeding a group. My first visit for the two-piece chicken dinner and a side of cornbread sticks at Funky Chicken was $11.34, and I did not order a drink. If I had brought my family of four and we’d all ordered the same thing, the tab would have been $45.36.

After my first visit, I was informed that the thing to have here is the “chicken pot pie” (photo at left). I put that in quotation marks because it’s not a traditional pot pie with a piecrust-like bottom and top. Funky Chicken’s version is a concoction of chicken breast, peas, carrots and white gravy – essentially a chicken stew – ladled over bits of biscuit with another big, flat biscuit placed on top. The biscuit was tender and slightly browned, and I could see returning for this on a cold night when I needed to get fed in a hurry. The side of Brussels sprouts worked very nicely with the pot pie. I loved the frizzled edges of the loose leaves and how the sprouts were sliced lengthwise into easy-to-eat pieces.

There are often predictable issues with consistency at most new restaurant openings. For example, when I went in the first time for the two-piece chicken dinner, the biscuit on the side was oddly flat, almost saucer-like. When I returned, a friend ordered the chicken dinner and his biscuit was a golden brown disc that was soft on the inside and a little crisp on the outside. I stopped myself from reaching over and pinching off a hunk. (Sometimes my curiosity overrides manners.)

The mashed potatoes varied from one visit to next, too. On the first visit, the potatoes had a rustic texture and it seemed like some gravy had been mixed in, while on the second visit they were over-blended and paste-like. I wasn’t in love with either version. I liked the texture of the chunky rendition, but some gravy on top would have contributed needed flavor. As far as the macaroni and cheese goes (photo at left), I thought the broken saltines added appreciable texture, and the pasta was thankfully al dente. I wanted the cheese to be a little sharper.

Funky Chicken is good and will probably improve. The only available non-chain food within a few blocks is Revival Market, which serves an excellent lunch but does not offer dinner (with the exception of special wine dinners).

I’m curious about Funky Chicken’s soon-to-open high-end siblings: Bradley’s Fine Dining Diner (which will feature the Midwest-meets-California cuisine) opening near Funky Chicken in March and Ogden Pour Society (an upscale pub with craft beers, previously announced as Hops & Harvest) to open at Gateway Memorial City. But based on my visits to Funky Chicken, I’m not yet sure what the hubbub is about.

FUNKY CHICKEN, 181 Heights Blvd., 832-924-4655, realfunkychicken.com