His name might not ring a bell, but his Houston restaurant franchise will. Darrin Straughan is the president of 91-year-old James Coney Island, which, if you’ve made a trip for a cheese coney recently, you’ll notice has a hip new moniker: JCI Grill.

James Coney Island began in 1923 when two Greek immigrant brothers, Tom and James Papadakis, traveled to Houston and flipped a coin to see whose name would appear on their hot dog stand in downtown Houston. Forty years later, the brothers finally opened a second location, and many more opened quickly after. Today there are 21 locations spread across Houston.

The founding family filed for Chapter 11 in 1989, and the company was scooped up by an investment group. In 1994 Straughan (now the CEO) joined the James Coney Island family after keeping a watchful eye on the company for years.

Three years ago Straughan had a local advertising agency perform a focus-group study on James Coney Island’s core concept. He and his team worried the restaurant was losing its relevance to customers.

“They ripped us up,” said Straughan. “So, I decided to attack some of our deficiencies and update the concept. I worried that an 88-year-old brand – at the time – would take massive amounts of resources to accomplish the re-imaging.”

Despite his worries, the hot dog franchise began its rebranding effort in late November 2013. The name was changed to JCI Grill. Then a new and expanded menu of fast casual items was added. Finally, the restaurant’s interiors and exteriors were renovated in the hopes of increasing frequency of visits by long-time customers and attracting new customers.

Photo by Alfonso Hernandez

The exterior renovations began with the 5730 Hollister location and continued with the 740 S. Mason Road location. While the familiar red color still adorns the restaurants’ facade, the overall design and large JCI emblem are hardly recognizable. The multi-colored brick that wraps around the lower half of the building is reminiscent of a backyard built-in barbecue, fitting with the restaurant’s new grill concept. For those attached to the red, white and blue of the 91-year-old design, rest assured that six James Coney Island locations will remain the same, such as ones east of downtown. Whether they change or stay as is will depend largely on the locations’ demographics, says Alfonso Hernandez, the director of operations.

The “JCI” in the new name refers to all of the legacy menu items like the cheese coney and the Frito pie; the “Grill” refers to the new, expanded menu featuring items like the Asian pork sliders and the Jucy Lucy burger. The newest addition is the Slopper, a cheeseburger smothered in chili, onions and cheddar cheese. For the full JCI Grill menu, click here.

Change is rarely easy, and according to Hernandez there have been some customers who have noted their distaste or confusion with the new concept. Hernandez says it’s often the case that these customers don’t have a reason for their complaints – it’s just different and they don’t like it. (We agree that change can be a scary thing, especially when it involves your chili cheese coney.)

Of the new menu items that have been rolled out, the “Seattle Dog” (with cream cheese and caramelized onions) and the onion rings have been the big hits. Despite a few naysayers, the rebranding of Houston’s hot dog institution has been extremely well received over all, says Straughan. So in concurrence with JCI’s new look and new menu, we thought it was about time to sit down and better get to know the king of the coney.

We’ve read that you have had a long fascination with hot dogs and James Coney Island’s business. Why is that?

As a native Houstonian and history buff with an infatuation with the restaurant business, I was fascinated with James Coney Island’s history and longevity.  It truly has been a very humanistic brand.  It is one of Houston’s children. And I love the cheese coney – my “hot dog enchilada.”

You’ve noted that you get a lot of inspiration for new menu items from TV cooking shows. Which shows are your favorite?

I watch the Travel Channel and the Food Network non-stop. It is on in my office right now.  Diner’s Drive-Ins and Dives, Man vs. Food, Restaurant Impossible and Kitchen Nightmares – and any food documentary.

Describe your perfect hot dog.

Perfectly steamed bun, pork and beef wiener, mustard, chili sauce (Coney sauce), Cheese Whiz and the best minced onions in the world. The hot dog is merely a vehicle for the minced onions. I love our onions.

If you were miles away from a JCI Grill, what would you want your last and final meal to be? 

Anything fried with a side of black pepper cream gravy.

Hamburgers or hot dogs?

I’ll gladly pay you Tuesday for a cheese coney today!