Earlier this week I stopped in for lunch at the brand-new L’Olivier, the eponymous French restaurant from chef Olivier Ciesielski.

Is the name familiar? Ciesielski was executive chef at Tony’s for more than a decade. However, his new restaurant couldn’t be more different from the sumptuously indulgent Tony’s. L’Olivier is located in the heart of Montrose at 240 Westheimer about a block east of Taft and just across the street from Michelangelo’s. It is very understated, with an exposed brick wall, metal tables and Eames-style plastic molded chairs. But the serving ware is beautiful and the food is … well, it’s everything you always hope for and seldom find in a just-hatched restaurant. We swooned over the jar of pork rillettes, chicken liver pâté and beef tartare, each served with warm, buttery croutons. There was the farmer’s salad with lardons and topped with a jiggly poached egg. The meal’s highlight was salmon risotto, also topped with one of those perfectly poached eggs, the creamy rice redolent with tarragon and studded with nubbins of smoked salmon. Absolutely delicious. We’ll have more on L’Olivier at a later date and in the print edition of My Table, but I wanted to give SideDish readers a heads-up to try this newcomer before the crowds find it. L’Olivier plans a grand opening in May.

In other restaurant news, here’s a quick catch-up about what’s coming and what’s gone:

Chef Jonathan Jones emailed to say that his new Concepción is underway in the former Oceans location at 819 W. Alabama. He described it as “classic Latin American flavors in a modern frame.” Look for a soft opening in May.

Triniti chef/partner Ryan Hildebrand announced plans to open Brande (pronounced “brand”), a new restaurant concept located on the Westheimer lot near Montrose where Ruggles Grill has stood so many years. (Ruggles is to be bulldozed.) The new structure, described as “a contemporary building with a rustic farmhouse feel,” will be designed by Houston’s MC2 Architects, the same group that helped create Triniti. It’s expected to open Fall of 2013.

After patiently waiting for two years, co-owners Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner of Pilot Light Restaurant Group finally announced a permanent residence for their first restaurant project, to be called The Pass and Provisions. Blocks away from where Siegel-Gardner grew up, their new restaurant space will be located at 807 Taft, previously the home to Gravitas, which closed several weeks ago.

Chef Chris Williams and his brother Ben are opening Lucille’s in the Museum District at 5512 LaBranch on or around the first of June. It’s named for their great grandmother, Lucille Bishop Smith. There will be Southern comfort food and Prohibition-era cocktails.

The Eatsie Boys are going brick and mortar. After a year-plus roving the city in their food truck, the three partners – Ryan Soroka, Matt Marcus and Alex Vassilakidis – are taking over the defunct Kraftsmen Baking cafe location (it closed March 31) at 4100 Montrose. They plan to open Eatsie Boys Cafe this summer.

Chef/would-be restaurateur Randy Rucker has announced that plans for his Restaurant Conat at 5219 Caroline are kaput. Read his blog here.

Recent closings include Pesce (3029 Pesce), Felix 55 (5510 Morningside), Pola Artisan Cheeses (6909 Ashcroft) and both locations of Cova (5555 Washington and 5600 Kirby).